Passes above three thousand metres, and peaks that remain unclimbed by law. Bhutan closed its summits out of respect for the deities said to live on them.

Gangkhar Puensum, at 7,570 metres, is the highest unclimbed mountain on earth. Not because nobody can, but because Bhutan prohibited it. That single fact tells you how the country relates to its own landscape.
Dochula Pass at 3,100 metres, where 108 chortens stand on a ridge facing the Eastern Himalaya. Chele La at 3,988 metres, the highest motorable road in the country, with Jomolhari and Jichu Drake straight ahead on a clear morning.
Autumn, after the monsoon has washed the air, and midwinter. Spring is beautiful at valley level but hazier at altitude than photographs suggest. We plan pass crossings for early morning, which is usually clearest.
Bhutan is over seventy percent forest, constitutionally. The descent from Dochula into Punakha drops from cold highland pine to subtropical banana and rice terraces in under an hour. That compression is the thing photographs never capture.
We time the driving days around the mountains, not around the map.
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